In these disturbing times of CWG worries, Ayodhya title-suit tensions, Kashmir troubles, floods and Naxal issues, there appear in the newspapers, once in a while, some heart-warming stories. One has to really burrow deep into the newspapers(and the right newspapers at that) to get to them, but they do exist, however small in proportion. One such stack of news stories that has been building up for sometime now is the news on heritage structures preservation.
We have been infamous for non-conservation of our structures. And what we did rarely in the name of conservation were shoddy jobs that distorted the monuments. What we did in the name of promoting tourism was even worse. Our Archeological Survey of India(ASI) has often been like most other government institutions – lethargic, if not anything worse.
So, it came as a surprise to learn about some really ambitious and well-done projects in archeology and heritage structures in the recent past.
First in the list is the Muzuris project. Muziris is an ancient port on the Malabar Coast that has been mentioned in ancient Tamil scriptures and Roman texts. It was a busy trading port in first century B.C.E. Though numerous speculations abounded, the exact location of Muziris had remained elusive so far. The fact that backwaters and river courses altered over the last two millennia did not help either.
For a long time, speculations on the location of the Muziris port centered around Kodunganallur on the banks of the Periyar River in the coast of Central Kerala. But puzzling lack of archealogical evidence meant Muziris remained mysterious. Careful study by a doctoral scholar in the 1990s threw up evidence of a small village Pattinam possibly being the spot where the flourishing port of Indo-Roman trade once lay. Archealogical evidence presented itself almost immediately and excitement mounted in all quarters. An expert team came together and systematic excavations began in the 2007. Excavations happen every year seasonally(due to the monsoon I guess) and loads of ancient treasures like beads, pottery, coins, etc have been unearthed. Iron age artifacts have also been found providing evidence that Muziris indeed had a long long history before it suddenly vanished one day.
Following the Muziris excavations, the Kerala government has launched the Rs 140-crore Muziris Heritage Project(MHP) which is funded fifty percent by the Central government. MHP covers not only excavations and conservation of the Muziris and its satellite ports, the project aims to pay a tribute and conserve heritage of the maritime history along the Malabar coast with central focus on Muziris.
One of the projects under the MHP is the Chennamangalam Paliyam Palace and Nalukettu mansion conservation project. The palace was built by the Dutch for the Paliyam chief for his help in dislodging the Portuguese. Distinctive Dutch architecture and historic significance of the palace make it an important landmark of the pre-British European colonial conquests on the Arabian coast. After the renovation works, the Palaces will be handed over to the trust that has been maintaining it traditionally to open to public and continue maintenance. This is a good example of practical and sensible public-private partnerships in heritage preservation.
Then coming as an example of social conscience towards preservation of history is the Uttaramerur Kailasanathar Temple renovation. An entirely a private effort led by the REACH foundation, an NGO, villagers and students of IIT Madras, there are several aspects to be praised here. The renovation was by no means a haphazard job and care was taken to preserve the originality of the structure. Scientific techniques of restoration and methods to test the structural strength (courtesy of IIT Madras) were employed. Inscriptions of Chola and Vijayanagara periods have been discovered in the course of the effort. Work over two years has restored the 1200-year-old temple to its former glory.
The latest news is about the most prestigious of India’s international heritage conservation efforts - the Ta Prohm temple conservation project awarded to the ASI. The 12th Century Ta Prohm is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Angkor Wat region of Cambodia. Though the uniqueness of the temple lies in the interweaving of mammoth stone structures and tropical trees, unbridled growth of the trees will lead to complete demolition of the structure. ASI’s work has recreated some of the damaged parts of the temple, created supports in wood and steel as well as facilities for tourists to walk through safely and view the temple complex. Initial skepticism on ASI’s technical capabilities has been laid to rest with the good work demonstrated so far.
It is true that these heartening news are far and few. And the scale of the efforts is in no way comparable to what is required to preserve the expanse of the rich heritage structures and sites of India. We still have the yellowing façade of the Taj Mahal, decaying Nizam’s wardrobe or the monsoon-damaged Charminar. But these stories are definitely something to be appreciated, definitely feel-good.
As the few of you following my blog would have noticed, I have been posting articles fairly often the past two months. I kept wanting to write almost every single day. And I tried to make time for it. But I have also been having this nagging feeling that something was missing in my writings lately. Was it my style? Or even worse, substance? Nah, I think the substance was OK, not too bad atleast. I guess it is the style.
As I went and reread my last few entries I noticed my sentences steadily became more winded. I always liked my writings to be a mix of simplicity and a conversational style. I never wanted complex sentence construction to be my trademark. My words should paint the picture subtly, not become the glaring colours of the picture itself. Or in other words, I liked the idea to transcend the writing. I noticed that my last two blogs atleast deviated heavily from my aspired style. In fact, this contrast became more clearly apparent to me from my perusal of the “Lost & Found” piece. The “Columns” was the exact style of writing I liked and was comfortable with.
Well, I guess I am being too harsh with myself. It is not as if the last few entries are totally unreadable(They aren’t that bad, right? :P ). It was just that I wasn’t totally satisfied with the writing. You are wondering where this is going, right? Well, I warned you, the title says “confounded writer”, you should have known ;)
So, coming back to the topic, I thought about why my writing wasn’t my best and hit upon the culprit(No, no, not me. OK, maybe in one sense, it could be said it is me. But you know, … OK, I will stop :) ). I realized I did not write the pieces in one stretch. So my thought flow had been broken and hence my writing looked more like a collage than a picture. So you know what I did, sat down and wrote this in one go! :)
Today I got to attend a good (really good) workshop on High Performance Computing for Science and Engineering. It was really refreshing. It was a really cool way to get to know the latest cutting edge research in fields as diverse and intensely intriguing such as material design, biomolecular research, genome sequencing, etc. More than the “Ah” factor of the Teraflops of computing power required, number of years it takes to solve some equation, blah blah, the fascination for me lay in understanding the problems being tackled today in pure and applied sciences and engineering. Of course, the stated objective of the workshop - understanding the computing challenges was met by most presenters, I am just giving my perspective of what made it interesting for me.
While I did not know anything beyond the terms such as “molecular dynamics”, “weather research”, “material design”, “drug therapy”, it helped me gain a decent understanding of the area and the problems being worked on. The talks also gave an idea of some of the convergences that were happening in some of the fields and potential convergences in the offing. It helped that the idea of the workshop was to discuss and understand the challenges the research problems posed in terms of computing. So all the presentations provided a rounded picture of the work, the achievements so far, the “where-we-are” pitch and the challenges faced in terms of computing, often in the form of simulation and modeling.
The workshop turned out to be an eye opener in more ways than one. As I listened to the various lectures, I had many a dejavu moment. I saw a term that invoked in me a “Ah, I know that!” thought. But, embarrassingly, I found that I was unable to place it exactly or explain that term properly. It was seriously disappointing that I was unable to explain something as basic as “van der Waals force”. So, the dejavu moment was followed by a few moments of depression before I got caught up in the lecture and forgot about my disappointing near nil recollection of my science subjects. The blissful state would last for a few minutes before I encountered another dejavu-depression sequence. Now and then, there came by a term for which I was to recollect an explanation satisfactorily, giving me a little consolation.
But for all my little disappointments, the workshop left me with a lot of feel good factors. I had understood the basics of a number of fascinating research domains. I got some reassurance that good research did happen in India. And last but not the least, I left with a resolution to brush up on my science.

